Halliday Wine Companion

Matt Fowles of Fowles Wine in Victoria's Strathbogie Ranges describes surviving a catastrophic bushfire that burned through his 1400 acre property in under 45 minutes on January 8th 2026, destroying his family home, 1200 (of 1260) sheep, and severely damaging both vineyards – while the winery and cellar door survived. In the aftermath, he prioritised family stability and practical problem-solving before turning to longer term decisions about replanting and farm redesign. The experience has reshaped his thinking on fire resilience, variety selection, regional diversification, and the value of community and industry support networks.
The Halliday Wine Companion Podcast is hosted by Halliday editor Anna Webster.

Fowles Wine
Fowles Wine on Instagram
Halliday Wine Companion
Halliday Wine Companion on Instagram
Anna Webster on Instagram
Buy the 2026 Halliday Wine Companion

We cover:
Fire moves faster than preparation allows: Fire hoses running for 20 hours still couldn't stop the fire – it leapt over everything. Scale and pace overwhelm even well-prepared defences.
Grafted vines fare significantly worse than own-rooted vines in fire: The graft union is a structural weak point that fire exploits. In a phylloxera zone, like the Strathbogie Ranges, this creates an almost impossible recovery scenario.
Replanting is a 30-year decision – don't rush it: Matt is choosing to delay replanting by a year to decompress and think clearly. Chosen varieties (shiraz, riesling, sangiovese, chardonnay, gamay) reflect both regional suitability and market direction toward lighter, more aromatic styles.
Fire resilience needs to be engineered into vineyard design: He's rethinking headlands, physical rock barriers, succulent plantings, green mid-row cover crops, shade canopy, and irrigation – reasoning that sacrificing 5–10% of productive land to avoid a five-year replanting event is a sound trade-off.
Regional diversification is underutilised risk management: Sourcing fruit from multiple regions protects against localised catastrophic events (fire, frost, flood). The assumption that a wine must come from one place is a business vulnerability, not just a creative choice.
The initial surge of community support fades – the harder period comes later: Once the visible activity stops and casseroles stop arriving, the psychological weight sets in. Sustained, long-term support matters more than the immediate response.
Bulk wine stock integrity requires proactive verification, not assumption: Even though the winery was physically saved, Matt ran external tastings to confirm the bulk wine was undamaged before putting it to market – protecting both customers and the brand's credibility under pressure.
Core lessons:
Treat long-tail risk as a design constraint, not an afterthought. Matt's key insight is that conventional viticulture optimises for yield efficiency and ignores the time cost of catastrophic events. If a fire sets you back five years, the "inefficiency" of dedicating 5–10% of your land to fire mitigation infrastructure pays for itself in a single event. Apply this logic to your own operation: What low-probability, high-impact risks are you ignoring because the expected frequency feels remote?
In a crisis, stabilise the human system before the business system. Matt's first instinct was to secure housing for his family, reassure his kids, and make sure his team had continuity, before making a single strategic business decision. The business decisions came later, clearer, because the foundation was stable. When facing a major disruption, sequence matters – people first, then operations, then strategy.
Use forced transitions to upgrade your defaults. The fire destroyed what existed, but it also eliminated the inertia that keeps most businesses locked into legacy decisions. Matt is now able to choose better varieties, incorporate regenerative and biomimicry principles, redesign for fire resilience, and reconsider regional sourcing – none of which would have happened under business-as-usual. When a disruption forces a rebuild, resist the urge to simply restore what was there. Ask what you would build if you were starting from scratch with everything you now know.
See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

What actually makes a wine bar successful?
In this episode of the Halliday Wine Companion Podcast, we sit down with Lyndon Kubis, the force behind some of Melbourne’s most loved venues including Toorak Cellars, Milton Wine Shop, The Alps and Clover.
From starting at 18 years old with zero plan… to building a portfolio of iconic neighbourhood wine bars, Lyndon breaks down what really drives success in hospitality.
This isn’t about wine lists or interior design.
It’s about people, culture, and creating spaces that make people feel something.
We cover:
How Lyndon accidentally built a wine bar empire
Why “vibe” matters more than product
The shift in how Australians drink wine today
Natural wine as fine wine
The realities of running venues post-COVID
How to scale without losing soul
If you’re in hospitality, wine, or building anything customer-facing, this episode is a masterclass.
The Halliday Wine Companion Podcast is hosted by Halliday editor Anna Webster.

Lyndon Kubis on Instagram
Halliday Wine Companion
Halliday Wine Companion on Instagram
Anna Webster on Instagram
Buy the 2026 Halliday Wine Companion

01:00 How Lyndon got into wine
02:10 Buying his first wine shop at 22
04:00 Turning a bottle shop into a wine bar
06:00 Inspiration from Paris wine culture
08:30 What actually makes a venue successful
10:15 Why people come back (hint: it’s not the wine)
12:30 Location myths and reality in hospitality
14:00 The importance of “vibe”
16:00 Building team culture in wine bars
17:30 Expanding to Milton, The Alps & beyond
20:00 Opening in “dry suburbs” and licensing challenges
22:30 Why food became essential
24:30 Opening The Moon in Collingwood
26:00 Scaling back and focusing geographically
27:30 Launching Clover and modern bistro culture
29:00 How Australians are drinking wine differently
31:00 Natural wine vs fine wine
33:30 Building an online wine business during COVID
35:00 Importing wines and global relationships
38:00 Managing multiple venues
39:00 Biggest lessons in hospitality
40:00 Challenges in today’s market
41:30 What’s next
See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

Gareth Belton from Gentle Folk joins the Halliday Wine Companion Podcast to talk about his unlikely path from marine botany and seaweed fieldwork to farming some of the Adelaide Hills’ most compelling sites.
We dig into how Gareth’s scientific mindset influences decisions in the vineyard and winery, why site (aspect, altitude, soil) matters so much in the Adelaide Hills, and how Gentle Folk’s style has evolved from early, freewheeling releases into refined, terroir-driven wines.
You’ll also hear the story behind the Gentle Folk name, the reality of organic farming on steep slopes, the economics of growing grapes versus buying fruit, and why Gareth thinks sauvignon blanc is one of the most misunderstood varieties in Australia.
The Halliday Wine Companion Podcast is hosted by Halliday editor Anna Webster.
Gentle Folk Wines
Gentle Folk on Instagram
Halliday Wine Companion
Halliday Wine Companion on Instagram
Anna Webster on Instagram
Buy the 2026 Halliday Wine Companion

In this episode
00:00 Intro
00:15 From marine biology to a PhD in seaweed
02:35 The wine bug and Adelaide as a turning point
05:00 Natural wine, accessibility, and learning from peers
06:51 Making wedding wine and the first “serious” vintage
09:52 Why it’s called Gentle Folk
12:00 Farming grapes, leasing vineyards, and going organic
16:56 Scientific thinking in wine: test everything
19:06 Adelaide Hills site differences: aspect, altitude, soil
23:23 Farming philosophy, organic practice, and “pretty vineyards”
26:24 Evolution of style and the role of single-vineyard wines
34:32 Key influences and the wines Gareth loves to drink
40:22 Sauvignon blanc, texture, and changing attitudes
43:48 Father’s Milk: the real story and the long lunches
54:13 What’s next: more sangiovese and Tuscany harvest dreams
56:27 Current releases and final thoughts

Gareth Belton, Gentle Folk, Adelaide Hills, Basket Range, Piccadilly Valley, chardonnay, pinot noir, sauvignon blanc, sangiovese, organic viticulture, single vineyard wine, Halliday Wine Companion, Australian wine.
#HallidayWineCompanion #GentleFolk #AdelaideHills #AustralianWine #Chardonnay #PinotNoir #SauvignonBlanc
See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

In this episode of the Halliday Wine Companion Podcast, host Anna Webster sits down with Rohan Smith, Chief Winemaker at Medhurst in the Yarra Valley, to talk about his unconventional path into wine, what it really takes to “speed-run” a winemaking career, and why the single most important decision in the winery happens before the grapes even arrive: picking.
Rohan shares how a classical music background shaped his approach to interpretation and craft, then gets practical on vineyard and cellar decisions, from diurnal shift differences between Yarra and Mornington, to building pinot noir and chardonnay blends through repeated classification tastings. He also breaks down the detail work behind Medhurst’s signature rosé, including press extraction choices, ferment temperature, and juice turbidity targets.
Along the way, you’ll hear about sustainability certification work, wine show judging (including Rohan’s role at Melbourne Royal), the value of regional wine shows for the community, and what’s ahead for the 2026 Yarra Valley vintage.
The Halliday Wine Companion Podcast is hosted by Halliday editor Anna Webster.

Medhurst Wines
Medhurst on Instagram
Rohan Smith on Instagram
Halliday Wine Companion
Halliday Wine Companion on Instagram
Halliday Wine Club
Buy the 2026 Halliday Wine Companion
LANGTONS
LANGTONS on Instagram
Plumm
Plumm on Instagram

Chapters:
00:35 Meet Rohan Smith, Chief Winemaker at Medhurst (Yarra Valley)
00:45 From musician to winemaker, and the “interpretation” link between music and wine
02:10 Early wine influence, collectors at home, curiosity and tasting young
02:55 The career pivot: cellar door and vineyard work, taking the pay cut
04:25 Learning from the ground up: vineyards, soil, vine metabolism
05:10 First vintages, wine chemistry, and building real capability
05:45 Studying wine science while working, graduating with a medal
07:05 Mornington vs Yarra: what actually changes in the glass and why
10:00 Working with fruit from multiple regions and what it teaches you
11:30 Sustainability certification and why it matters (in practice)
13:00 Taking over at Medhurst: following a long-term winemaker, changes without ego
14:40 The Medhurst site: slopes, soils, altitude shifts, and block differences
20:10 Entry level vs estate vs reserve, and how classification tastings work
27:10 Chardonnay winemaking: whole-bunch press, full solids, wild ferment, oak
29:10 The signature rosé: extraction, turbidity, cool ferments, and why it’s “fiddly”
33:00 Winemaking philosophy: intervention when needed, taste every ferment
34:50 The single biggest decision: picking dates and phenolic ripeness
36:00 2026 Yarra vintage check-in: conditions, timing, what to expect
37:10 Alternative varieties and what could work in the Yarra
39:10 Wine show judging: why it accelerates learning, community value
42:00 Len Evans Tutorial: why it’s so formative
44:40 The Yarra Valley community and why it works
46:45 Call to action: support cellar doors and Australian wine

See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

Emily McNally has spent the past two decades furthering the legacy of her parents, Ron and Elva Laughton, who bought a young vineyard in the late 1970s in Heathcote and established the iconic Jasper Hill.
In this episode, host Anna Webster asks Emily why her parents chose Heathcote, how the region earned its identity (and her family’s role in it), what “organic and dry grown” actually means on the ground, why they’re picking grapes earlier than they used to, and adapting to a hotter, less predictable climate. We also dig into Jasper Hill’s key vineyards, Emily’s Paddock and Georgia’s Paddock, the wines in the glass, and the honest commercial reality of selling wine – particularly shiraz – in 2026.
Jasper HillHalliday Wine Companion
Halliday Wine Companion on Instagram
Halliday Wine Club
Buy the 2026 Halliday Wine Companion
LANGTONS
LANGTONS on Instagram
PLUMM
PLUMM on Instagram

In this episode
00:00 Welcome to 2026, and why Jasper Hill moved to Heathcote
01:20 First vintage (1982) and making great wine with minimal gear
01:50 Heathcote before it was an official GI, and putting the region on the label early
02:40 Chauncy, Heathcote’s iconic restaurant, and the family connection
04:15 How Heathcote has changed (slowly), and why bookings matter at cellar doors
05:10 Growing up on a vineyard, resilience, and the winding road into winemaking
06:50 Vintage in Italy, and learning by doing
07:20 The “slow transition” of taking over from her parents
10:35 Emily’s Paddock vs Georgia’s Paddock, aspects, soils, and varieties
12:55 Organic, dry grown, biodynamics, and keeping soil alive
14:10 Climate change: Drier winters, heavier spring rain, and picking 4–6 weeks earlier
16:10 Fire, recovery, and what you do when a block is gone
19:35 The Jasper Hill range, plus “Georgia and Friends” and why it appears
22:10 Lo Stesso Fiano: Why fiano, how it tastes, and how it differs by grower
24:50 Emily’s Paddock co-ferment: Balancing shiraz ripeness and cabernet franc greenness
28:50 When to drink Jasper Hill: The 10–12 year sweet spot
29:45 Occam’s Razor: Origin story, sourcing changes, and a lighter Heathcote shiraz
33:10 Picking earlier now: Climate and taste, plus the legal shift around must additions
36:05 Labels, history, and why some things do not change
37:00 Is shiraz “out of favour”? Oversupply, choice, exports, and selling in 2026
41:30 What’s next: Vintage 2026 looks smaller, and how they are managing it
42:25 Visiting Jasper Hill: By appointment, and please do not DM on Instagram
Wines and bottles mentioned
Jasper Hill: Georgia’s Paddock Shiraz, Emily’s Paddock Shiraz Cabernet Franc, Georgia’s Paddock Nebbiolo, Georgia’s Paddock Riesling

Occam’s Razor Shiraz (Emily’s label)

Lo Stesso Fiano (collaboration, fiano focus)

“Georgia and Friends” and “The Sisters” (made when seasons force the hand)

Places and people mentioned
Heathcote, Victoria (region identity, GI conversation)

Chauncy, Heathcote (restaurant)

Georgia Roberts (partner in Lo Stesso)

Chalmers Vineyard (fruit component referenced in discussion)

Key takeaways
Regional identity is made, not granted. Heathcote did not always exist as a recognised region, and championing place mattered early.

Organic is a year-round commitment. Composting, cover crops, and soil life are not marketing lines, they are workload.

Climate is changing the calendar. Picking earlier is now normal, not exceptional.

Selling wine is harder right now. More choice, global oversupply, and softer consumption means more effort for fewer sales.

Legacy succession is rarely a moment. The handover from founders to the next generation can be a long, respectful fade rather than a handoff.

Partners: LANGTONS
The Halliday Wine Companion Podcast is presented by LANGTONS.
PLUMM Glassware
This season is also supported by PLUMM, official glassware sponsor of the Halliday Wine Companion Podcast.
Thirsty for more?
Join the Halliday Wine Club for premium 95+ point wines delivered monthly. Visit winecompanion.com.au or check the show notes to subscribe.

See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.