Halliday Wine Companion

Emily McNally has spent the past two decades furthering the legacy of her parents, Ron and Elva Laughton, who bought a young vineyard in the late 1970s in Heathcote and established the iconic Jasper Hill.
In this episode, host Anna Webster asks Emily why her parents chose Heathcote, how the region earned its identity (and her family’s role in it), what “organic and dry grown” actually means on the ground, why they’re picking grapes earlier than they used to, and adapting to a hotter, less predictable climate. We also dig into Jasper Hill’s key vineyards, Emily’s Paddock and Georgia’s Paddock, the wines in the glass, and the honest commercial reality of selling wine – particularly shiraz – in 2026.
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In this episode
00:00 Welcome to 2026, and why Jasper Hill moved to Heathcote
01:20 First vintage (1982) and making great wine with minimal gear
01:50 Heathcote before it was an official GI, and putting the region on the label early
02:40 Chauncy, Heathcote’s iconic restaurant, and the family connection
04:15 How Heathcote has changed (slowly), and why bookings matter at cellar doors
05:10 Growing up on a vineyard, resilience, and the winding road into winemaking
06:50 Vintage in Italy, and learning by doing
07:20 The “slow transition” of taking over from her parents
10:35 Emily’s Paddock vs Georgia’s Paddock, aspects, soils, and varieties
12:55 Organic, dry grown, biodynamics, and keeping soil alive
14:10 Climate change: Drier winters, heavier spring rain, and picking 4–6 weeks earlier
16:10 Fire, recovery, and what you do when a block is gone
19:35 The Jasper Hill range, plus “Georgia and Friends” and why it appears
22:10 Lo Stesso Fiano: Why fiano, how it tastes, and how it differs by grower
24:50 Emily’s Paddock co-ferment: Balancing shiraz ripeness and cabernet franc greenness
28:50 When to drink Jasper Hill: The 10–12 year sweet spot
29:45 Occam’s Razor: Origin story, sourcing changes, and a lighter Heathcote shiraz
33:10 Picking earlier now: Climate and taste, plus the legal shift around must additions
36:05 Labels, history, and why some things do not change
37:00 Is shiraz “out of favour”? Oversupply, choice, exports, and selling in 2026
41:30 What’s next: Vintage 2026 looks smaller, and how they are managing it
42:25 Visiting Jasper Hill: By appointment, and please do not DM on Instagram
Wines and bottles mentioned
Jasper Hill: Georgia’s Paddock Shiraz, Emily’s Paddock Shiraz Cabernet Franc, Georgia’s Paddock Nebbiolo, Georgia’s Paddock Riesling

Occam’s Razor Shiraz (Emily’s label)

Lo Stesso Fiano (collaboration, fiano focus)

“Georgia and Friends” and “The Sisters” (made when seasons force the hand)

Places and people mentioned
Heathcote, Victoria (region identity, GI conversation)

Chauncy, Heathcote (restaurant)

Georgia Roberts (partner in Lo Stesso)

Chalmers Vineyard (fruit component referenced in discussion)

Key takeaways
Regional identity is made, not granted. Heathcote did not always exist as a recognised region, and championing place mattered early.

Organic is a year-round commitment. Composting, cover crops, and soil life are not marketing lines, they are workload.

Climate is changing the calendar. Picking earlier is now normal, not exceptional.

Selling wine is harder right now. More choice, global oversupply, and softer consumption means more effort for fewer sales.

Legacy succession is rarely a moment. The handover from founders to the next generation can be a long, respectful fade rather than a handoff.

Partners: LANGTONS
The Halliday Wine Companion Podcast is presented by LANGTONS.
PLUMM Glassware
This season is also supported by PLUMM, official glassware sponsor of the Halliday Wine Companion Podcast.
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In this episode of the Halliday Wine Companion Podcast, host Anna Webster sits down with Michael Hill-Smith AM MW, one of the most influential figures in Australian wine. As Australia’s first Master of Wine and co-founder of Shaw + Smith, Tolpuddle Vineyard and MMAD, Michael shares stories from his childhood at Yalumba, his early connection to food and wine, and the pivotal moments that shaped his career.
Anna and Michael explore his personal relationship with Len Evans, the bold move to pursue the Master of Wine qualification in the UK, and how a dramatic family buyout at Yalumba ultimately pushed him towards creating something entirely his own. They dive into the evolution of the Adelaide Hills, the philosophy behind Shaw + Smith’s vineyard development, the joy of sauvignon blanc, and why gamay is the latest variety capturing their imagination.
This conversation is warm, deeply knowledgeable and peppered with history, personality and insight from someone who has helped steer Australian wine for decades.
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Key Topics DiscussedGrowing up at Yalumba
A childhood within one of Australia’s oldest wine families
The multi-family “estate life” at Yalumba
Sneaking into the castle on the label
The sensory memories of vintage and winery culture
Early exposure to food, wine and hospitality
First roles in wine
Starting on the bottling line at age 13
Time on the Yalumba board as the new generation
Realising there were broader opportunities beyond the family business
Len Evans’ influence
Michael’s father introducing Len Evans into the industry
Len’s humour, generosity and impact on Australian wine
Working unpaid at Len’s Single Bottle Club dinners
How Len encouraged a different way of thinking about wine
Becoming Australia’s first Master of Wine
Challenging the MW program to open to Australians
Moving to London to pursue the qualification
Winning the first Madame Bollinger Tasting Medal
The value of “options” tasting in developing palate accuracy

Chapters / Segments:
00:00 – Introduction & Childhood at Yalumba
02:10 – Early Career in Wine
02:48 – Mentorship & Influences
04:33 – Pursuing the Master of Wine
07:24 – Culinary Adventures
08:04 – The Family Buyout & Shaw + Smith Beginnings
15:09 – Evolution of Adelaide Hills & Vineyard Philosophy
19:16 – Experimentation & Gamay
22:16 – The Other Wine Co. & Creative Experimentation
25:52 – Overcoming Challenges
28:10 – Tolpuddle & Tasmanian Adventures
35:53 – Tasting Room & Visitor Experience
37:07 – MMAD Project & McLaren Vale Expansion
42:19 – Wine Production Strategy & Tasmanian Challenges
44:25 – Final Reflections

Halliday Wine Companion Podcast, Anna Webster, Michael Hill-Smith MW, Shaw + Smith, Tolpuddle, Adelaide Hills wine, Australian wine history, Len Evans, Yalumba, cool climate wine, chardonnay Australia, pinot noir Australia, gamay Australia.

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In this episode of the Halliday Wine Companion Podcast, winemaker Tessa Brown shares her remarkable journey from growing up on a sugarcane farm in Queensland to establishing boutique winery Vignerons Schmölzer & Brown in Beechworth. Tessa opens up about the challenges and triumphs of winemaking, the importance of careful site selection, and her philosophy of capturing purity of fruit in their wines. She discusses the benefits of collaboration with neighbouring vineyards, the unique impact of high altitude viticulture, and insights into their range, including riesling and nebbiolo. Connect with us:
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Key Takeaways:
Tessa’s path to winemaking was inspired by her family’s experience with commodity farming.
A visit to a cellar door revealed the deep connection between growers and consumers, influencing her decision to study viticulture.
Establishing Vignerons Schmölzer & Brown required careful planning and mentorship from industry experts.
The Beechworth property was undeveloped, offering a blank canvas for innovative viticulture.
Grape varieties were chosen based on site potential and Tessa’s personal taste preferences.
Early challenges included delayed harvests due to bushfires, with the first successful commercial harvest in 2021.
Collaborating with neighbouring vineyards has proven mutually beneficial.
High altitude vineyards provide advantages such as better acid retention and distinct flavour profiles.
The Obstgarten range showcases a modern approach to riesling and other varieties, inspired by European – specifically German – techniques.
Tessa’s winemaking philosophy focuses on minimal intervention to highlight the essence of the fruit.

Episode Chapters:
00:00 Acknowledging the Land and Introduction to Winemaking
03:00 From Sugarcane to Vines: Tessa’s Journey
05:59 Establishing Vignerons Schmölzer & Brown
09:02 The Beechworth Property: A New Beginning
11:40 Choosing Varieties: The First Plantings
14:59 Harvesting and Early Challenges
17:40 Collaborations and Neighboring Vineyards
20:29 High Altitude Winemaking: Influence on Wine
23:39 The Obstgarten Range: A New Direction
26:42 Winemaking Philosophy: Capturing Purity of Fruit
29:51 Future Plans and Cellar Door Experience
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In this episode of the Halliday Wine Companion Podcast, we sit down with Pedro Parra, one of the world’s most respected terroir consultants, to explore the deep and fascinating relationship between land and wine.
Pedro shares his remarkable journey from studying music to becoming a global expert on terroir, helping winemakers across continents – including Alkina Wine Estate in the Barossa – understand how soil, rocks, and climate shape the soul of a wine. From the complexities of soil structure to the evolving tastes of modern wine drinkers, Pedro breaks down why terroir is the DNA of great wine.
The conversation also dives into the future of terroir consulting, how climate change is challenging traditional viticulture, and why the next generation of wine lovers is redefining authenticity. This episode is a masterclass in how understanding the ground beneath the vines leads to extraordinary wines above it.
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Key Takeaways
Terroir is the genetic code of wine, encompassing soil, rock, and climate.
Pedro Parra is a world-leading terroir consultant shaping modern winemaking.
Soil composition and rock type have direct influence on wine expression.
The wine market is evolving toward authenticity and site-driven wines.
Younger drinkers are more engaged with provenance and uniqueness.
Global warming is changing traditional growing regions.
Terroir knowledge helps winemakers adapt and thrive.
The role of consultants in vineyard design is expanding rapidly.
Understanding terroir is fundamental to future wine excellence.
Chapters
00:00 – Acknowledging the Land and Its Custodians
00:25 – Introduction to Terroir Consulting
02:52 – Understanding Terroir: The Genetic Connection
06:13 – The Evolving Appreciation for Terroir
10:41 – The Importance of Terroir in Wine Quality
12:24 – The Role of Soil and Rocks in Terroir
15:23 – The Connection Between Terroir and Wine Expression
19:30 – The Complexity of Soil Types and Their Impact
25:01 – Choosing the Right Varieties for Terroir
30:13 – Tasting and Understanding Barossa Wines
33:24 – Exploring Calcoschist and Schist Terroirs
39:39 – The Art of Dilution in Winemaking
44:01 – Understanding Clay and Its Impact on Wine
52:19 – The Process of Terroir Consulting
57:20 – Designing Vineyards from Scratch
01:01:02 – Navigating Client Expectations in Terroir Analysis
01:05:13 – The Significance of Single Vineyard Labels
01:06:08 – Major Discoveries in Terroir Understanding
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In this episode of the Halliday Wine Companion Podcast we sit down with food critic, author, former MasterChef Australia judge, and wine enthusiast Matt Preston to share his distinctive perspective on the world of wine. From the art of tasting and the magic of food pairings to the crucial role of sommeliers, Matt delves into what makes wine such a captivating experience.
He opens up about his personal journey with wine, memorable moments that shaped his palate, and the evolving landscape of global wine culture. We touch on wine pricing, value, and the joy of discovering new regions and flavours. With quickfire questions and candid reflections, this episode offers both knowledge and entertainment for wine lovers and curious listeners alike.
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Key Takeaways
Wine is more than a beverage — it’s an art form.
The “oh hello” moment in wine tasting is truly unforgettable.
Comparative tasting (side-by-side) enhances appreciation.
Sommeliers are storytellers who elevate every wine experience.
The right food and wine pairing transforms a meal.
The wrong wine can ruin even the best dish.

Chapters
00:00 – Introduction
02:53 – The Art of Wine Tasting
06:08 – Matt’s Personal Journey with Wine
08:57 – Wine and Food Pairing Philosophy
11:48 – The Role of Sommeliers
14:54 – Wine Pricing and Value
17:41 – Exploring Wine Regions
20:50 – Memorable Wine Experiences
23:35 – Quickfire Questions
26:38 – Guilty Pleasures and Wine Preferences
29:21 – Future Projects and Closing Thoughts
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